Somehow, one doesn’t expect the desert terrain of the southwest to be home of some of the world’s most spectacular water features. But much of the desert lies within the basin and range topography that characterizes the west. With mountains on either side (the Sierras and the Rockies) snowfall and rain have to go somewhere. Often it goes deep underground stimulating rumors of fantastic underground freshwater seas and lakes. It also expresses itself in breathtaking and unexpected springs, rivers, seeps, creeks and, of course, dramatic waterfalls.
It takes centuries or more for the water from the winter snowpack to seep underground and then make it its way back up to the surface in a natural spring or river. Just like the rich array of stars you see spread overhead at night are actually millions of years old by the time the light reaches you, the stream you are wading in during the day is from rains that began centuries ago when ancient Americans roamed the area. It makes you think, doesn’t it?
Zion Waterfalls
No one should travel to Zion without taking the time to hike to the Emerald Pools. The name comes from the bright, emerald green algae that color the water. There are three sections, the Upper, Middle, and Lower Emerald Pools. The half-mile, paved trail to the lower falls takes a little maneuvering, but is easily manageable by all. A striking water formation, the 110-foot Emerald Pools waterfall varies from a thin misty sparkle to a heavy blanket pouring over the rock edge, depending on the season and the rainfall. Even when the rain has been somewhat scarce, the cascading sparkles catch the light in a rainbow of color and provide a stunning background for an “I-was-there!” photo.
Keep going behind the back of the waterfall, up a narrow ledge on the face of the cliff to view hanging gardens and tree frogs. Continue until you reach the Middle Pools, which look down on the top of the waterfall that feeds into the Lower Pools. Some of this can be a little difficult, as it requires crossing streams and slippery areas. But the view from the edge is worth the trouble.
If you want to continue another 200 feet, you’ll find the source of the Emerald Pool Waters. An 800-foot waterfall fills the large pool at the base of the cliff. You can also reach the Emerald Pools through the Kayenta Trail that begins from the Grotto Picnic Area and rises a quick 150-feet in elevation. You can loop back down via the Emerald Pools trail.
Zion Narrows have a number of waterfalls. The first you will reach, Mystery Falls, is accessible to almost everyone. Day hikers typically turn back once they reach this landmark.
Parunuweap Canyon is part of the east fork of the Virgin River. The beautiful canyon has thousand foot cliffs and waterfalls. Unfortunately, the canyon itself is closed, but you can look down from the rim over the falls.
Access the river from North Fork Road, about two and a half miles from the park entrance to find Cave Canyon. There you will find a waterfall that undergoes a series of drops before resting in the pool below.
Further down, the canyon narrows, forcing the water together and releasing it into a 25-foot waterfall into a lovely pool below.
Hike the beautiful narrows of Gifford Wash to find a dryfall, with some evidence of seasonal water. If you’re lucky enough to travel safely during a rain, you might see the dryfall turn wet.
Lower Pine Creek contains a series of small falls, the largest of which falls about ten feet. The canyon and hike is worth the effort, however, because it includes wildflowers, hanging gardens and abundant wildlife.
The right fork of North Creek is a tough hike that requires bouldering, some rope work, scrambling, and numerous water obstacles. But for those up for the challenge, the pools, waterfalls, springs, and seeps are a well-deserved treat at the end of a long day.
